If you are staying in Los Cabos, it is easy to get caught up in the whirlwind of luxury resorts, energetic nightclubs, and the chaotic beauty of the Arch. But if you are willing to venture just an hour off the beaten path, you will find a side of Baja California Sur that feels like stepping back in time.
Welcome to Cabo Pulmo.
Famously described by Jacques Cousteau as “the aquarium of the world,” Cabo Pulmo is home to the oldest of only three coral reefs on the west coast of North America. It is a National Marine Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and quite frankly, one of the most spectacular natural wonders you can experience in Mexico.
The best part? You don’t need a tour bus to get there. You just need a sense of adventure, a full tank of gas, and a reliable car.
Here is your ultimate guide to the perfect Saturday road trip from the tourist corridors of Los Cabos to the pristine shores of Cabo Pulmo.
Why You Need to Drive Yourself
Before we get into the directions, let’s talk about why renting a car for this trip is the only way to go.
Organized tours to Cabo Pulmo exist, but they are expensive and rigid. They often herd you onto a crowded boat and give you a strict 45-minute window to snorkel before herding you back.
When you drive yourself, you own the schedule. You can leave at sunrise to catch the calmest water, stay for a long, lazy lunch, and linger until the sun paints the sky in shades of violet and orange. Plus, the drive along the East Cape is an attraction in itself, a scenic route of desert mountains meeting the turquoise Sea of Cortez that you simply can’t appreciate from the back of a van.
With BBB Rent a Car, you have the freedom to explore. You can stop for photos whenever the mood strikes, turn up the radio, and experience Baja the way it was meant to be experienced: on your own terms.
The Drive: From Highway 1 to the East Cape
Your journey begins on the main Transpeninsular Highway (Mexico 1).
If you are departing from San José del Cabo, head East toward the airport. You will pass the SJD International Airport on your left. Keep driving straight past the airport turnoffs. The highway here is four lanes wide and in excellent condition.
About 45 minutes past the airport, you will reach the town of La Rivera. This is your major landmark. You will see a Pemex gas station on the right side of the highway. Stop here.
This is the last “reliable” gas station for a while. Fill up the tank, check your tire pressure, and maybe buy a bottle of water if you didn’t bring a cooler.
In La Rivera, you will turn right toward the coast. This is the start of the “East Cape” road.
For the next 30 minutes, you are driving through a landscape that feels like a movie set. The road cuts through arid desert dotted with massive Cardon cacti, eventually winding its way toward the ocean. On your left, you will see huge fenced-off luxury developments; on your right, the turquoise blue of the Sea of Cortez begins to peek through the scrub brush.
The road is paved but narrow in places, winding through the small communities of Buena Vista and Las Barracas. Keep your eyes peeled for wildlife it is not uncommon to see cows or goats wandering near the roadside, and the birdlife here is incredible.
Eventually, the pavement ends. Don’t panic. You will hit a stretch of graded dirt road. It lasts for about 3 to 4 miles. While it can be a bit bumpy, any standard sedan from the BBB fleet can handle it with ease. Just take it slow, enjoy the dust kicking up behind you, and look for the signs pointing to “Cabo Pulmo.”
Arriving in Paradise
As you crest the final hill, the view opens up. Below you lies a half-moon bay of distinct, vibrant blue. This is Cabo Pulmo.
It is not a resort town. There are no high-rise hotels, no cruise ships, and no Senor Frog’s. It is a collection of rustic bungalows, a few small dive shops, and about 100 permanent residents who have dedicated their lives to protecting this reef.
Park your car in the designated dirt lot (there is usually an attendant who watches the cars for a small tip, so keep some pesos handy).
The Main Event: Snorkeling “The Aquarium”
The magic of Cabo Pulmo happens beneath the surface.
There are a few beaches you can walk to, but the best spot for beginners and families is Playa Los Arbolitos. It is a short drive past the main center of town (or a 15-minute walk if you prefer to stretch your legs).
Los Arbolitos is a protected cove. The water here is almost always calm, shielded from the open ocean swell. You simply walk into the water from the white sand.
Within seconds of putting your face in the water, you will understand why Cousteau loved this place. The reef is alive. You will be surrounded by massive schools of sardines that move like silver clouds in the water. Jacks, groupers, and angelfish dart between the coral heads.
If you are lucky, you might encounter the resident colony of California sea lions. They are playful, curious, and surprisingly fast underwater. Watching them glide and twist through the water is a memory that will stay with you forever.
Important Note: Because this is a protected Marine Park, you must use reef-safe sunscreen (or better yet, wear a rash guard). Do not touch the coral or stand on it. The locals are incredibly protective of this ecosystem, and respecting their rules is the price of admission to this paradise.
Lunch with a View
After a morning of snorkeling, your appetite will be kicking in.
Head back to the main beach area in front of the town. There are a handful of open-air restaurants right on the sand. They are rustic tables covered with checkered plastic tablecloths, and the floors are sand but the food is incredible.
Order the catch of the day. You can often see the fresh catch being delivered by the local pangas (fishing boats) right to the kitchen. A cold beer, a plate of whole fried snook or pargo, and a side of fresh guacamole while listening to the waves crash a few feet away? This is the definition of a perfect Saturday.
Don’t forget to try the clata. It’s a local dish, a soup made with fish, clams, potatoes, and spices that is unique to the region.
Practical Tips for the Road
To ensure your trip is as smooth as the drive, here are a few practical tips for American travelers:
- Cash is King: While some places might take cards, the internet connection in the East Cape can be spotty. Bring enough Mexican Pesos for gas, food, park entrance fees (usually around $50-$100 pesos per person), and tips.
- Hydrate: The East Cape is dry and hot. Even if it doesn’t feel humid, the sun is strong. Bring a cooler with water and ice for your car.
- Full Tank: We mentioned stopping at La Rivera, but we’ll say it again. There are no gas stations in Cabo Pulmo. Don’t risk running out of gas on the dirt road.
- The Drive Back: The drive back is beautiful, especially if you time it for sunset. However, the highway can be dark at night, so be careful of wildlife crossing. If you plan to have a few drinks with lunch, designate a driver or wait until you are back at your resort to start the party.
The Journey Home
As you drive back toward the glow of San José del Cabo, you’ll likely feel a sense of peaceful exhaustion. It’s the good kind of tiredness that comes from saltwater, sun, and fresh air.
As you pass the airport turnoff and merge back into traffic, the memory lingers that you’ve experienced the real Baja, fully immersing yourself in its ocean and landscape.
Ready to Hit the Road?
A trip to Cabo Pulmo is the highlight of many vacations to Los Cabos, but it requires a vehicle to get there. Don’t let the lack of transportation confine you to the hotel zone.
At BBB Rent a Car, we make it easy, safe, and affordable to explore the East Cape. With transparent pricing, no hidden fees, and a fleet of vehicles ready for the adventure, you can focus on the road ahead.
Pack your swimsuit, grab your sunglasses, and book your car today. The “Aquarium of the World” is waiting.
Book your BBB Rent a Car vehicle now and start your adventure.